Big Wednesday all over again

MAJOR STORM OFF HAWAII TO GENERATE HUGE SURF FOR CALIFORNIA ON WEDNESDAY A developing storm near Hawaii has intensified early Monday with 50 knot winds and 50 foot seas aimed directly toward California. This is an “El Nino” type of storm as it has dropped far to the south between Hawaii and California to pick up a tremendous amount of tropical moisture to fuel its strength. A weak ridge of high pressure over California will maintain stable weather conditions along the coast with generally light and variable winds – very favorable for surfers with the experience to surf large waves. This storm is generating near hurricane force winds and huge seas within 1,000 miles of California, much closer than normal. The swell direction will also be from a broad westerly direction, which will also allow the maximum amount of swell energy to penetrate through the offshore islands to arrive at the coast of Southern California. Most areas with southwest, westerly, and/or northwesterly exposure will experience 8-12 foot waves with sets near 15 feet. Some more west facing exposed areas will have sets approaching 20 feet and possibly more. Local high tides will be in the medium 4.5 foot range so typically we wouldn’t expect significant coastal flooding or erosion. However, this will be one of the largest swells to arrive in Southern California is years, so local authorities should definitely prepare for coastal erosion and flooding in low lying areas open to the southwest, west, and northwest. Marine harbor entrances open to a westerly direction will also have large breaking waves near the harbor entrances, especially during the low tide periods late Tuesday and Wednesday evenings. If you have further questions please feel free to contact the Surfline forecasting team below. http://www.Surfline.com Be safe, Sean Collins 714-504-9404 cell scollins@surfline.com